Not everyone has the time or patience to mix their own potting mix, and that’s completely fine! If your plant is too top-heavy, it might fall over (or be knocked over). Soil component drying rates are NOT proportional to particle size. We don’t usually think about it, but roots need to be able to access oxygen. I am glad you acknowledged there are “peat grades that offer superb performance”. Particle Crush Leca balls to a powder and fill a pot with it. If I were to use the orchid mix, I'd mix it up at around 50% orchid bark mix & 50% fast draining soil. You think peat is just that stuff you tried one time at Home Depot. It’s the cousin of the Monstera delicosa , or Swiss Cheese … If any plant can withstand being repotted, it's this plant. I think when I first started reading posts about it, I was looking at reporting an orchid or a fiddle leaf fig... now I’ve gotten into Monsteras and the pink princess philodendron but I’m curious if there are specific plants that do better in each. Use it regularly on you Monstera deliciosa plant and ALL of your tropicals! You’ve got it almost right. If you really want to use a container that does not have drainage holes, there are a couple of options. Monstera Adansonii has more oval holes and the frame is not destroyed by a number of perforations and their size. I realize there are many grades of peat, and peat in a more advanced state of decomposition provides less loft. When we reach a 50/50 mixture of peat/bark, there is still more than enough peat to fill every all space between bark particles with peat. Terracotta gives your plant a sturdier base but can be difficult to move around when you need to. my pathos fell about 4 feet to the ground. Being kept in a small pot will restrict how much the plant grows, but it should not directly cause any damage. No matter what grade of peat you use, even if you use H2 blonde which is one step removed from living sphagnum moss, you cannot expect the structural stability you can rely on by using pine bark as the medium's primary fraction. A moisture meter (like this one from Amazon) can help if you feel uneasy about relying on your own sense of touch to judge this. Thanks for the tips! You’ve never compared yields of crops in these soils. (Brands/links would be amazing, I've been reading a lot of "make sure it has high this and low amounts of this", but I'm not able to get into a store at all and it's hard to find if soil contains all this in the brief amazon descriptions). Oh I love them too, they're made from washable paper fabric- I bought them on etsy. Air pockets can only form if there is free space in the soil. Sorry, but I disagree with most of the offering immediately above. Best Soil and Containers for Monstera Adansonii When it’s time to repot, you’ll want to refresh the potting soil your Monstera Adansonii is planted in. They're unbeatable outdoors, but avoid them for indoors. While I do prefer nearly all the plants I grow to be in the gritty mix, those that need biennial repotting as a minimum get put in the 5:1:1 mix. There is an old adage to ‘grow the roots, not the leaves’. If there’s not enough soil (i.e., roots are filling most of the pot), you will find you have to water too frequently. The ideal range of soil pH for Monsteras is around 5.5-7. A well-draining soil is important for your Monstera adansonii swiss cheese plant. Could you tell me where to find the post(s)? I'll most likely get a 'good' cacti succulent soil for my Monstera and philodendron :). Soil component drying rates are NOT proportional to particle size. There is a possibility that the pot can break, so be sure to use safety equipment and follow directions. Monstera Adansonii Repotting: The Soil Mix To Use & Steps To Take Monstera Adansonii, or Swiss Cheese Vine, has lacy leaves and is quite the popular houseplant these days. Though, as I mentioned earlier, I just use soil on its own and it works just fine. Another thing you misunderstand about peat is that even though it does (initially) get perched water, it doesn’t last so it’s not a problem like in bark. There was no hope of untangling those roots. The two primary needs for this plant are adequate light and not to be overwatered. Some of your claims are correct, but, like soil ingredients, you combine them with the rest of your assertions in a fashion that defeats your purpose, assuming that is to shed light. It sounds like you've never even been inside a hydroponics store, let alone followed the last 30 years of leading-edge soil developments the hydro community has driven. I remember reading Al comment somewhere that he prefers the gritty mix for his houseplants over the 5:1:1. Thanks everyone for the input, I really appreciate it! Drainage is the most crucial aspect when choosing a potting soil for Monsteras. It is best to add a moss pole while you are repotting the plant since there will be room in the pot for the pole. Poor root health due to poor soil choice is often the underlying reason a plant contracts an insect infestation or a disease. It is a compromise I have to make to have hanging plants. Of course, we're all free to do as we wish insofar as what we choose as a medium for our plants, but all media are not created equal; and unfortunately, what's on the outside of a bag of soil has little to do with what's on the inside. . You’ve also never seen the other premium grades of peat I mentioned which hold more air, so you don’t even know what peat is. Really? There are a few signs that your Monstera is ready to move to a larger pot. What I said, basically, was what it says on a bag/bale of potting substrate has little to do with what's in the bag. This works out to about once a week during the summer and every 2-3 weeks when the weather is colder. Seem fair/reasonable? Observe the color of the cheese plant leaf to balance the watering frequency. Ideally, monstera prefers slightly acidic soil with a pH ranging between 5.5 to 7.0. You’ve never even seen the whole class of soils you are deriding. Most bagged media supports in the range of 3-6", with 4-6" being the norm. Not just mindless dupes blindly believing marketing hype on a bag as you imagine, but measured trial and error for years to precisely maximize square-foot profit from container gardening. I meant to add a photo of the foliage to my previous post. It tends to hold a lot more moisture than potting mixes. "Ad hominem" only applies when the arguments are unrelated to the issue in question. The first is that you have to water more frequently, and the water seems to run through the pot very quickly. Saturate both, and see which dries first. Once the soil barely begins to dry out, the top inch or two of soil, it’s time to water. For Monsteras, you should not need to add any soil amendments to change soil pH. These will have the highest measured growth rates of any packaged plant soil. No one else is having trouble growing in premium high-porosity mixes like you claim, so please stop saying that. Wheat area? Thanks so much! I bought mine over two years ago, when it looked just like yours. A ping pong ball is full of air. Water retention and air balance in a mix are NOT proportional merely on particle size. Where is the advantage in adding the bark. To be fair, perlite has an uneven surface, which would add some air porosity, but the small fraction of air porosity added due to perlites irregular surface can never be even close the the volume displaced by the particle because of its closed cell nature. Also known as the Swiss cheese plant, this beauty is an easy to grow, large leaved plant with characteristic splits in the leaves. I will share a Monstera soil recipe that I used for my Monstera deliciosa that has . From what I can tell, you are the one that created the 5:1:1 mix and gritty mix that everyone refers to in these forums. The soil pH should be in the range of around 5.5–7 for strong growth; this can be … I'm not sure why someone would take out the most desirable part of the medium (the chunky stuff) and replace it with more chunky stuff, but ....... What it says ON the bag often has no relationship to what's IN the bag. It will The problem with plastic pots as the plant gets larger is that they are fairly lightweight, and a big Monstera deliciosa is heavy. When you water, make sure you give the plant a thorough soak (ideally until about 20% of the water you put in comes out through the drainage holes). After you gather all your supplies (the plant, new pot, and potting mix), place a layer of potting soil in the bottom of your new pot. I know traditionally you should repot when it's dormant, however this guy has been growing like crazy since I got him and I don't see him (or want him!) It also has alfalfa meal, kelp meal, a very little of 3 kinds of lime (slow, medium, and fast-acting), and a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer. The ideal range of soil pH for Monsteras is around 5.5-7. Most plant authors include the "free draining" tag for Monstera soil, but that means free But you cross the line when you think this qualifies you to claim other universally accepted methods won’t work well. The best potting mix for Monstera adansonii should contain a mixture of potting soil, peat, and perlite. Then fill a similar pot with the same amount (by weight) of uncrushed Leca balls. Potting mix is actually a soilless mixture (which is confusing since the term “potting soil” is so commonly used). Why are my monstera deliciosa leaves fading? AKA your plant is getting leggy and trying to stretch out to get to light. SOIL AND WATERING The best soil for Monsteras in general are chunky, airy potting mixes. The reason lower (on the VP scale) grades of peat have more loft is their ability to retain their natural structure, an ability that decreases with age and as the ht of the soil column increases. I can't say how tall the PWT will be in the medium you discuss, but I can say with a good deal of certainty, if the medium is indeed comprised of large fractions of peat/coir, it will be too much for you to make the claims you made. This is a soil mixture that is very airy. Most store-bought potting mixes will fit the bill but could be modified slightly to make the mix quicker draining. In my considerable experience, I've come to recognize it's not possible to build a highly aerated medium based on large fractions of fine ingredients. MATERIAL: Monsteras are usually sold in plastic nursery pots, and those are generally fine for a while. This setup allows me to have the best of both worlds: the plastic pot is relatively light, and it’s easy to repot, but the ceramic cache pot provides stability to keep the plant from falling over. Mine grows roots like crazy. During winters, it doesn’t need much water, just occasionally mist. Fill 2 identical pots, one with coarse sand the other with clay and see which dries first. Ingredients can vary, but it is generally composed of moss (sphagnum moss or peat moss) and perlite or vermiculite as the base. You relied on a long list of assertions about me, and about soil science that aren't supported by fact or science, especially the parts about what I have and haven't done and what I'm aware of; and, you misrepresented almost everything I said to bolster an untenable position. The best time to feed it is in spring and summer, while it is in its growing phase and refrain from it in autumn and winter, because the plant then enters the dormant phase and doesn’t need all those nutrients. eval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'thehealthyhouseplant_com-leader-1','ezslot_5',112,'0','0'])); Monsteras are not picky about what you mix in to increase the drainage of your potting mix, so you can use whatever you have. So I hacked away roughly two-thirds of the roots, if not more. Wet both and see which dries faster. If you have pets in your home, make sure you place it away from their reach as it’s toxic to them, according to the ASPCA. (Whistling and looking away as if I don't know anything about what's going on because don't want to explain why I am using cactus soil for anything because I am ashamed because I totally know better). Monstera Adansonii Soil This houseplant grows best in fertile potting soil that allows water to drain well. Just a little bit moist. letting up any time soon. Terracotta pots are another option, but they have the opposite problem. Meanwhile, these two plants are identical in That way you can water it thoroughly each time, letting the excess drain out of the hole. So far so good. Monstera deliciosas don't go dormant. I've never even watered the guy since buying him, they must've reeeeeally overwatered at the nursery before sending him over. Don't forget ht of the soil column significantly impacts loft of peat - the weight/ gravitational potential of media components (and the water they hold) near the top of the soil column pushing down on material nearer the bottom of the soil column. Feel free to experiment with soil mixes to see what suits your plants best! Monsteras need a container that isn’t too large and must have drainage holes to drain excess water. Water thoroughly and fill in more potting mix if needed. It’s never recommended to use dirt from the ground for potted plants. It is best to repot Monsteras and other plants in the spring or early summer, during the growing season. Thanks, Tom. Kind of…. Additionally, is it okay to repot while new leaves are sprouting? Since normal potting mix can be too wet and cacti mix can be too dry, many Monstera owners like to get the best of both worlds by mixing the two (in equal parts) to create a happy medium. I disagree because the basic premise upon which your claims rest are faulty ..... and I'm sure we can agree you needn't be a bus driver to know what makes the wheels go 'round and 'round. Lower on the scale = less loft. Thanks to this guide, you can properly take care of your rare plant. Monstera deliciosa is not a particularly finicky houseplant and is generally easy to grow in most indoor environments. I’m in SE Michigan, in Royal Oak. Please quit trying to teach me about something you know nothing about. For Monstera (and most Philodendron) soil, they actually grow best in a soil opposite from what a cactus likes. I thought you were referring to my having used cactus soil. Brugmansia, hibiscus, datura, PM, lantana, ......, anything with aggressive root systems that more than fill the pot biennially goes into the 5:1:1 mix for the simple reason that root congestion demands a repot well before structural collapse of the soil becomes an issue. When you water make sure to water thoroughly. Soil How to care for Monstera Adansonii plants is not much different from caring for other flowers, such as how to care for hanging flowers or planting chrysanthemums by paying attention to the soil as a medium of planting. Since this is only true when particles are uniform in size/shape, the actual size at which perched water disappears in practical applications will be closer to .125". They really like more water. IOW, it is a glass foam which has solidified and trapped air inside internal cells, and the internal cells are not gas or water permeable. But that is my personal preference, as I don't like using coarse sand in any plant. It's wrong to pretend such authority about them. This indicates that many roots are taking up space in the pot and not a lot of soil to absorb the water. Al: thank you! I've attached a photo just for fun. For optimum growth of Monstera Adansonii, aim for soil pH between 5.5 to7.5. My beautiful young Monstera has the classic predicament of being gnat infested at the moment, and after trying all other resorts I've established from my research that repotting it would be best. Soil Requirement: This plant thrives best in peat-based soil that has a large drainage hole. So when I asked you to stop saying people were having trouble growing in them, I was not at all putting words in your mouth. One thing that I have noticed, is that once the roots have filled up the pot it's in, they tend to stop growing for the most part. Like the perlite, it simply decreased o/a air porosity, but to a lesser degree than perlite would because barks internal pores are open and gas/water permeable to some degree. It’s best to thoroughly water this plant during the summers, ensuring the soil surface is dried out between waterings. My Monstera is the only plant I have where I use straight up soilless medium (Vermipro right now) without any additional amendments to cut the soil. I found one just a few miles from me. The best soils for these plants are ones that are peat moss based. They allow for many more and finer feeder roots. Plant your Monstera Adansonii in a pot that has great drainage to help prevent root rot. I think Bret was saying to remove the bark from the mix, which I don't agree with. Or, Fill a pot with hort-grade (prescreened) Turface and one with fines that pass through an insect screen. You can see examples of these type of mixes with good drainage but also good water retention at your local hydroponics store. Mycorrhizae can be great in outdoor dirt, in premium HP mixes, and surprisingly good in straight hydro; but rather poorly in half-hydro bark-type mixes because they struggle with either having too much air or too much perched water if you go finer. Let's pretend I didn't say anything. My monstera is dying, leaves turning brown/yellow, please help! You have to be grossly incompetent to fail with these, especially since they can move, balance, & evaporate water so much faster than your type of fine bark, because of their superior capillary wicking. What I understand is it is ok to pot monstera or philodendron in cacti & succulent soil? Nutrients are absorbed through the plant’s roots. How to Propagate a Monstera Adansonii Hi there, just so you know I may receive compensation from the links on this page, thanks for visiting! “Water-retentive media produce far fewer fine roots”. Most plant authors include the "free draining" tag for Monstera soil, but that means free draining soil including humus just like almost all tropical houseplants prefer, not "free draining" like a cactus. The Swiss cheese plant, also known as Monstera adansonii, gets its name from its large, heart-shaped leaves. Thanks so much Photo! Example - start with a pint of peat in a quart jar, then add a pint of perlite. When you said “The reason lower (on the VP scale) grades of peat have more loft…”, you have that backwards. Would a philodendron monstera do better in a 5:1:1 or a gritty mix soil?? It’s also common to see roots emerging from the drainage holes when the roots get too big.eval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'thehealthyhouseplant_com-large-mobile-banner-1','ezslot_6',113,'0','0'])); When you are repotting your Monstera, it is generally best to just go one size bigger (from a 6″ pot to an 8″ pot, for example). To show you what it looked like. At least until they come into contact with the soil. Every packager of retail grow media seriously pushes the limits of veracity in order to capture the unsuspecting buyer, and this extends to fertilizers and hundreds and hundreds of other products which target hobby growers. Has anyone planted any Monsteras or Philodendrons in Cactus soil or do you think there would be any adverse results? Keep the soil mix as fine and wet as you can while still maintaining a minimum amount of air space with a safety margin against an over-watering crash. Anything below 5.5 can be too acidic for your monstera. You show me what your healthy root systems look like, and I'll show you what mine look like. Many, many types of mixes will work well for these, as long as you stay away from the cheap home center mixes that pack a pot like mud, and only give air to the roots for a tiny window of time if you carefully withhold water down to the last possible day. I like to mix my own blends for most of my plants. Or, start with dry clay and dry sand and allow each to absorb an equal measure of water - see which dries first. He has 3 new leaves unfurling at all times. Click me to get to the most recent posting of the info. If the top inch or two is dry, I go ahead and water. The ad hominem charges do you no favors, either. The goal with Monstera is to have lots of available water & nutrients for these thirsty & hungry plants, but also to have adequate air to the roots. It doesn't make sense to pot in a more expensive soil that will remain structurally sound indefinitely when all you need in the way of structural stability is no more than 2 years. As you can see in my photo, the roots are pretty much in the process of filling up the entire pot all over again. Monstera roots are strong, and they can break plastic pots when they outgrow them. You’ve never watered them. Less loft = more compaction = more water retention. By providing your Monstera with well-draining, loose soil in a pot that is correctly sized, you will be a step ahead in minimizing your chances of giving it too much water. I repotted it back in spring. Since indoor plants don’t get the same natural nutrients, we have to supplement them via the potting mix and fertilizers. From that point forward, increasing the ratio between the bark and peat rapidly increases air porosity; so, if you really want to take advantage of media which are ACTUALLY highly aerated and fast draining, you'll always be working with media that have a very large fraction of ingredients larger than about .100". In general, it is better to give a Monstera too little water over too much. I've read that they like a lot of drainage so I'm considering potting it in the Cactus/succulent soil and perlite I have on hand, but I'm a little nervous as I haven't been able to find much info on whether this is okay. Near but not in a window is good. Plastic pots do not “breathe” in the same way as terra cotta does, so they tend to keep all the moisture inside. We are a member of several affiliate advertising programs designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to external sites.